Why Toproping is Good For You

Toproping, among certain climbers, has gained a nasty stigma. To tell a fellow climber you plan on toproping at the gym today is akin to telling the cool kids you're about to ride your bike home from school with the training wheels on and a Hello Kitty basket strapped to the handlebars. They just can't believe you wouldn't want to be lead climbing all the time. 

I'm going to let you in on a little secret: Toproping is good for you; Toproping can help you become a better climber. I will say, without shame, I love toproping!! 

The reason I like toproping so much is because I believe it is a great training tool. It allows me to separate the mental and physical aspects of climbing and to focus on each one with greater focus. On toprope, I can climb a route that is much more challenging (for example, a route where I may surely blow the first clip on lead). Toproping such a route can still allow me to build the physical strength, as well as broaden my move schema, without worrying abut breaking my ankles. When climbing outdoors that strength and confidence in my movement will translate to real rock, regardless of how much leading I've done in the gym, and I'm all the better for it.

I'm not saying lead climbing in the gym doesn't have it's place. It allows me to practice pacing for clipping, getting into good clipping stances, as well as working on good clipping technique. It also allows me to climb fun overhanging features in the gym, that I wouldn't be able to navigate on toprope. Plus, it's a good way to practice rope management for both belayer and climber. But it doesn't need to be my only source of training!  

But let's be honest, gym leading is not really the best representation or preparation for leading outdoors. How many times do you get a lead route outdoors where the draws are 4 feet apart? Indoors you almost never get to mentally prepare to be runout. This is something that I learned, and got used to dealing with mentally outdoors, no thanks to gym leading. Gym leading doesn't allow me to practice hanging draws, or clean anchors, nor does it teach me how to properly rappel. Leading in the gym is to leading outdoors what riding a bike with training wheels is to riding one without.

So next time someone scoffs at your intention to do a little toproping, don't be upset. Just remind yourself they are missing out on a valuable training technique. And remember, refusing to toprope (or wear a shirt) will not make you a better climber. 

Big Crimpin'

Oh, strenuous sloper; bane of my existence!

When I first started gym climbing, knowing nothing of the world of real rock, I wondered frustratingly why someone would design a piece of plastic akin to a bowling ball to hang on to. They were awful! They'd pump me out before I could even say "take!". 

Oh, crappy crimper; how I loathed you for so long!

Possibly the lesser of two evils in terms of ability to utilize, but possibly the most evil in their ability to injure. When I first came across these in my early gym days, I was stunned that a setter would expect me to hold onto a shitty foot chip to move myself up the wall. Gah!! 

I can't say exactly when, but at some point these things began to change. While I still despise some slopers, and some crimps are just ri-god-damn-diculous, I have come to appreciate both of these holds and their dynamic relationship with each other. More often than not, now a days, I prefer a crimp over a sloper. In fact, many crimps that used to be seemingly impossible are now almost jug-like. What really blew my mind after some light informational reading, and testing of my own, is that slopers actually make you better at crimping! WTF?!

This realization has caused me to embrace the sloper. They may not not feel good at the time but they will pay off later when you find yourself actually RESTING on that once godawful crimp!

Disclaimer: Crimps will actually not make you better at slopers! So, keep a steady stream of slopers in your climbing repertoire, and you'll be sending like a crimpanzee!!